- Do you think they are indifferent to all the ruins that surround people here? Just as we often take nature in Norway for granted? I ask, after three days on foot in the Eternal City. This year’s trip with Mom was to Rome.

- Hurry, the Pope is speaking now! The man who turns to us is one of the many selling guided tours in the Vatican Museums, among other things. Around him there are also people selling fake designer bags, who run away as fast as they can when the police appear. He points eagerly in the direction of Peter’s Basilica. - Sure, we smile and stroll towards the museum and our plans there. We don’t quite believe him. We’re early, no big queues here yet. Within the museum’s walls, we bend our necks while admiring the ceiling, stop at the statues and paintings, and sit down to enjoy the Sistine Chapel. There is so much here – so overwhelming…

Full of impressions we go down to St. Peter’s Basilica, finding the guide was right – the Pope is there! We see him on the big screen as he shakes hands with a number of people. When we look extra closely, we glimpse something white in between the others up there on the podium. St. Peter’s Square is closed to anyone, we will certainly not enter. Its okay, I’m not so excited about the Pope anyway. But Peter’s Church should be seen, we decide to come back another day.

Rome feels … delicious! It is walking distance to most things we would like to see, and walking is what we do. A lot! But we did take the metro to Ottaviano to rest our legs for the museum. Good idea we agree later as we toast with chilled white wine, while sitting down in a small restaurant in one of the streets around Piazza Navona. The legs are tired now.

I love the narrow little streets with interesting details everywhere. I really get my fill here, Rome is full of them. There is something about walking around and getting surprised at what lurks around the next corner. A fountain, an interesting detail in the architecture, a shop … Since we are in Rome the surprise here often means an old church or an obelisk as well. Besides, I love that the city is full of little fountains from which you can fill your water bottle.

The day before we were in the small streets of the Monti neighborhood. At the lovely Ai Tre Scalini we ate lasagna. This place was recommended by Giacomo, owner of the B&B where we live (I’ll tell you more about this accommodation in another article). I was famished after the flight and was uncomfortably full. Not Ai Tre Scalini’s fault, I ate way too fast.

I was still full when we walked around the Coliseum. Gave thumbs up for the impressive architecture and ambiance. It is strange. I have always thought that I would go to Rome one day and of course see the Coliseum, but I never thought that I would actually go inside. Do not ask me why. I therefore had no expectations other than what I’ve seen in movies. It is a stunning building, in terms of how it is built and what went on here. I’m glad I went inside.
Outside the Coliseum several men were selling umbrellas. Small rain showers came and went. We turned down the offer to buy an umbrella and sought shelter under one of the many balconies instead. So nice to just stand there and squint at the beauty around us. We were in no hurry anyway.

Again and again, we seem to end up around the Navona area, for a coffee or a delicious ice cream. According to Giacomo you get the best ice cream here, at San Crispino. It is tasty, and apparently without additives as well. A pure, tasty delight. Another day we are sniffing around the market in Piazza Campo de Fiore, and for a moment I regret that I did not bring a large suitcase to fill with spices, oils, pasta and sun dried tomatoes! Two different spices do come home with me. The pasta I pick up somewhere else.

Not far from where we live, is Panella. Here we pay 12 euros each, and receive one voucher for food and one for drink. Then we sit down at some high tables in the middle of the store with as much food we want from the buffet, and each with a glass of decent wine. The food consists of, among other things, various bruschetta, pizza, pasta, couscous, a type of potato salad and quiche. It comes in small handfuls, and you can sit here for a long time. So you get to carefully study the products available in the store as well. This is where I find tagliatelle with 5% Barolo, which I bring home. For a while I stand there with a few packages of pasta with ruccola as well, but find that I would rather cook pasta with fresh ruccola. I do my best to ignore all the sweets they sell in the bakery section. One can eat oneself to death in this place!

Top left: Delicious ice cream from San Crispino. Top right: sun-dried tomatoes at the market Pza. Campo de Fiore. Bottom left: Panella – a true paradise! Bottom right: Sweet tomatoes and mozzarella – perfect on a hot day.

Popular Trastervere also has many narrow streets, cozy, and is almost a cliché of a narrow alley in Rome… Of course we sit down here also with a glass of wine and eat good food. I smack my lips as I dip bread in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Loving the heat from the sun. It is a warm day and winter melts out of my body. Church bells call a little further up the street. It is all peaceful.

There is a reason why Elizabeth Gilbert’s first part of the book “Eat, Pray, Love” was dedicated to food. In Rome you eat! We eat ice cream, pasta, pizza, bruchetta in many different places. Then there is the Salami al chioccolata (chocolate cake with biscuits – looking like a salami sausage) at Ai Tre Scalini! Delicious!

Right: Before I went to Rome, I found a website that focused on France’s answer to the street artist Banksy. Christian Guewy, also called C215, has produced several pieces of art around the city. One on a mailbox, in Pza. Trilussa in Trastervere. I accidentally find this.
Left: In Monti I find a signature I do not know. According to Google it is the work of the Serbian artist Sashka, or TKV as she signs with.

The last day we are outside the basilica again. Pope is gone and the doors are open to tourists again. The long, long queue is moving pretty fast and soon we are inside the overwhelmingly huge church, guarded by the Swiss Army with their funny looking uniforms. It is a somewhat clammy experience. There are a lot of people in here and we could certainly have made more out of our visit to the church. We could have climbed the stairs up into the dome, or gone down in the crypt where popes are buried. After browsing for a little while in the church we go out into the sun again instead.

Later, we stand in the middle of the impressive Pantheon – A temple of all gods. Looking up through the circular opening in the ceiling, I see straight up into the sky. It is cool in here. Pleasant. I take my eyes away and for a little while look out at the pillars that greet the visitors outside. Corinthian style, I have learned, with the feather-like decoration at the top.
So much history, so much interesting architecture and decoration. Can you ever walk around the streets here and be blind to this? Take it for granted? The eyes are wide admiring everything that surrounds us. From pretentious fountains to small details in a building.
We give the ceiling of the Pantheon one last look before we leave the old building and trudge out into the streets of Rome. It is hot out there now, and somewhere a cold glass of white wine is waiting for us. Some more food as well perhaps?

Fontana di Trevi and the Spanish Steps. Of course, one must see them. The challenge is… so does everyone else!

We flew Ryan Air from Oslo Rygge to Rome-Ciampino: NOK 1830,- return for 2 people
Bus from Ciampino airport to the Stazione Termini in Rome; Terravision – 4 Euros per person.
Can also be booked online.

I booked our accommodation through Hostelworld and the choice fell on the lovely Asian Delight B&B (will do a separate article on this place) 304 Euros for 2 people for 4 nights.

Tickets for the Vatican Museum was booked here, to avoid long queues. We were there early anyway, so it was no problem with queues. 19 Euros per person.

Our return flight to Oslo Rygge was very early in the morning, so I had to book an airport shuttle (cheaper than taxi). It was booked through Hostelworld / City Discovery. 16 Euros per person.

- Why have I not come here more often? The plane has barely touched the ground before I ask the question. Joe says nothing. Just sits there and looks out the window. It is the view of the mountains and a sense of belonging that makes me ask the question.

Ålesund, the beautiful city by the North Sea. My father was born here and had he not died when I was only six years old I might have had a closer relationship to this city as well.
But now we are here, and soon we are sitting by a large dining table, with a cup of tea, just looking out the windows. We have an amazing view and we enjoy it. The mountains are laying there so quiet in a magical light where the sun plays hide and seek with the clouds. In the fjord the fishing boats are slowly driving back and forth in search of fish.

When we can finally tear ourselves away, we stroll around the city center streets where Art Nouveau reigns supreme. On the night of 23 January 1904 Ålesund burned to the ground. Aided by strong winds the fire spread very quickly. Over 800 houses burned down and 10,000 people became homeless. When the city was rebuilt, it was under the influence of Art Nouveau that was so popular in Europe at that time. This has made Ålesund an architectural treasure worth preserving.

We greet the huge seagulls, admire the details of the beautiful buildings and curiously we glance down into the fishing boats at the pier. - You can not come to Ålesund without tasting the seafood here, I say to Joe. Later we find ourselves with my family enjoying the most delicious, juiciest crayfish I have ever tasted. Meanwhile, we talk about the family that once lived, the family that are with us now, and the traces they have put on Ålebyen.

It could have turned into a disaster! Half the city’s fire brigade seemed to show up when it caught fire in a frying pan on Hotel Brosundet. We felt a little worried there for a while, but fortunately, it appeared that the fire died out quickly.

I had forgotten how steep it is here! We climb up the steep, narrow roads and the stamina I thought I had seems absent. We forget to count the steps to the viewpoint Fjellstua, and who cares when you can admire such an amazing view from here. Joe is peering through his binoculars. Far out there is the popular Hurtigruta (link) heading to port.
- Are you English? someone asks behind us. An elderly man who has wandered around us wants to talk. He looks at Joe and points. A white bench stands in memory of a young English pilot from the RAF who gave his life here during the war. Joe finds it interesting. Although he once was in the RAF himself he did not know they had pilots up here during the WW2.
Before the man leaves us, he points again and says that there are several bunkers up here left after the war. Before I know it I see Joe disappearing into a crack wanting to explore.

The small wooden building in Fjellgata 2 (corner of Grensegata) was spared from the fire. It is said that the man who lived here had a revelation from an angel that he was safer inside than outside and refused therefore to leave his house while fire ravaged the area.

The next day we see Ålesund in a different perspective when we board the ferry that will take us over to Langevåg. Ten minutes later we go ashore and head for this little journey’s shopping spree. Devold and Bergans have their factory outlets here, and, as great fans of Devold, we are looking forward to finding some more goodies.
There are products with errors at reduced rates (and the errors are usually just cosmetic), good deals on various items and of course the ordinary products. Time flies as we browse, run in and out of fitting rooms, decide, and change our minds again. But in the end, some lovely woolen items do come home with us! At Bergans we find what I hope will be perfect trekking trousers. No complaints at the price! Our wallets are slim and our shopping bags stuffed when we take the last ferry back to Ålesund.

In a photo album at mom’s place there is a photo of my dad and me standing by the Hurtigruta. Now I’m standing here with Joe looking up at the ship MS Trollfjord. Visitors are allowed to come aboard, so we grab the opportunity for a peak.
We take the elevator up to the deck. Looking into the lounges, thinking of the world’s most beautiful voyage as they call it. For better or worse – I remember the TV pictures from the ship during a journey in a storm. The plates were flying all over. Smashed glass everywhere. But I can also imagine the admiration of tourists while in the narrow fjords here in the west as the ship glides slowly between the mountain walls.

It was way too short a stay this time, but we were very lucky with the weather and I am glad Joe could experience a glimpse of our beautiful and dramatic west, the Sunnmøre Alps, Ålebyen and of course the family I have here.

We’ll be back!

Or: killing four hours of waiting time.

- Here comes the tourists, we laugh and line up against the yellow wall. Over our heads is the sign telling us where we are: Hell station, a good stone’s throw from Værnes airport. But as we speak English the name of the place has a different meaning, for which the little station has become so famous.

For us, Hell is just a stopover between Torp and Ålesund, since there were no direct flights. We don’t mind, when you can go out for a walk and get some fresh air and a little adventure. We have good shoes and warm clothes because, in fact, Hell can be pretty nippy, which it is today.

The station was built more than a century ago, and consists of beautiful old wooden buildings. Quite charming actually. We skulk around. Peek into the waiting room - the waiting room to Hell! I nudge Joe. There is not much in there. A good place to think through one’s actions, perhaps?

We do not forget, of course, the sign Gods expedition. We take some more photos. Look at the weather. I had hoped for snow and ice, just to be able to say that Hell has frozen over, but it is too mild, it rains. Joe is talking about the Eagles album with that title, which came out in 1994, and why it got the name it did. More pictures later, we have seen enough of Hell.

And the name Hell? It is said that it derives from the Norse word hellir, meaning cave.

We take a detour on the way back to the airport. On the hillside, about a ten minute walk from the station there are some interesting rock carvings of animals, mostly reindeer. We walk up a long hill in a small housing estate area, then into the woods. For a moment I find it a bit absurd to be far up the slope like that. But hey, we’re out on a little adventure, and in our case, the trip to Hell does come with a return ticket.

It is no longer about the size of the bushes, wether the toilet seat is clean enough or the queue in front of the rest room is short enough for making it there in time.

I’ve written about GoGirl before, and I had decided to buy one. Recently, at the travel fair in Lillestrøm, I found the Go Girl stand. I hadn’t really thought of the fact that they would be there, but now I saw the chance to get a closer look at this fantastic little thing. I ended up bringing one back home with me.

We know the situation; dodgy toilet seats. Somewhere out there on the road or at some festival. Perhaps you are traveling with a group of people, suddenly feeling the need for a pee, and nowhere to hide behind. Or maybe the queue for the restroom is simply too long. Women cannot just pull their pants down everywhere and line up in a corner.

The other day I heard a speech by lovely Cecilie Skog (the only woman who has done the seven summits and both North and South Pole!). She talked about her trips to the North and South Pole, and I had to smile when she brought up the issue I am writing about here. Just imagine, you are in a place where the temperature drops down to -40, -50…. You really do not want to leave your tent and pull your pants down. So she uses something similar to GoGirl. And as she says: just like the guys, she can now pee in a bottle – without leaving the tent when out on an expedition. And she adds: unlike the guys she does not have a shrinkage problem!

I have tried my GoGirl now. It was surprisingly easy, and caused no mess at all. I did not have to lean forward really as I had heard someone say you have to. I did not need to take off any clothes either, although I started almost naked here – just in case. It was my first time after all. But in general, just do as the guys -  pull the zipper down and go for it.

The only thing to keep in mind is that you should not save up too much before you use it. It will be too full and spill then.

The funnel is made with flexible, medical grade silicone. It can be boiled and reused. It also comes with a napkin and a biodegradable bag and you can roll it all together and stuff it back into the holder again. Hygienic, easy and quite discreet.

http://www.go-girl.com/

– When do you leave? I seem to get that question more and more often now. But things take time. Not only will Joe do the job on the vehicle as thorough as possible. There is still much we need to sort out, things to sell, things to tidy up. And in between there are unforeseen things that make this process longer.

Autumn last year, we lost time because there were some problems with the generator that Joe used to spray the Landrover. Recently a storm blew our tent away. The tent serves as a garage and shelter – we need it. Fortunately, the car did not get damaged, and most of the tent could still be used – Joe just had to order some new parts for it (and rebuild it of course).
Now the car has been moved to a better location. It is more protected now. When moving the Landrover, Joe finally got to test everything. (– it felt like driving a go-cart), and everything works as it should! The new engine, the transmission box, the gearbox, the clutch, steering… The breakes work. We are happy!

And a little step further.

This is what Joe found when returning after the storm.

With this we now introduce our sales site. Here is a list of everything we have out there for sale on places like Ebay, Roto, Finn, QXL, Bazar, etc. We want to get rid of as much as possible before we take off. Simple living, here we come!

A new article in our 3 x Soletraveller-series. This time we want to share our experience of three restaurants that we would love to visit again. For the food, atmosphere or the location.

Star of Greece, Adelaide (Australia)
The fish melted on my tongue. The barramundi tasted so nice and the vegetables as well. I looked at Joe. He was happy too. He had whiting on his plate. Our companions had chosen the wine, an Australian Riesling. Perfect.
The restaurant was unpretentious, with rustic furnishings and a touch of Greece. The location? My god, the location!
Before dinner I had found myself standing outside wondering if I should pinch my arm. The bright blue sea sloshing lightly against the powdery white beach below me… I could see the shadows in the water of the old ship wreck that is a popular snorkel spot. The sun was hot. No clouds in the sky. Star ofGreece – next time I will spend all day here!

http://starofgreececafe.com.au/index.html

Salamanca Restaurant, Dublin
- They give you loads of food here, the two American women told us, before we finally decided to go inside. As everything on the menu outside looked tempting, we were not difficult to persuade anyway.St. Andrew Street inDublin, a stone’s throw from Temple Bar, we walked in to Salamanca Restaurant. It was a wonderful break from the pub to pub crawl. Although we had several days filled with typical Irish food and drink both in the east and west behind us. There was now room for something else, and it was filled with paella, delicious potatoes with chorizo ​​and full-bodied red wine. And the dessert – delicious fresh champagne sorbet. Outside the rain poured down. It did not matter. Inside it was such a cozy and warm atmosphere. We decided to stay here for a while.

http://www.salamanca.ie/

Soho, Gothenburg
Everyone wanted to sit outside in the sun. So did we. But I still took a round inside. The interior here was certainly worth a look.
In Eastern Larmgatan in Gothenburg is the restaurant Soho. I had read about the place before I came to Gothenburg, but it was a coincidence that we ended up here. We were so tired after walking around half the city – and very hungry – and there it was, in front of us.
A lunch buffet and a glass of rosé wine to me. Champagne and Caesar salad for my friend, EIleen. I have the impression that the Swedes offer buffets more often than I see here in Norway. Soho’s buffet is certainly very busy and interesting, it was hard to decide what to eat before my stomach was full. And the dessert – I was full, but wish I’d had room for more. The Caesar salad came in a large portion as well, my friend was happy too.

http://www.sohogothenburg.se/home.html

A lot of people seem to agree – they hating packing for their journeys or holidays and wait until the very last minute before they finally do it.
Personally, I love to pack for the trip, and I like to start early. Well, depending on the type of journey of course. Slowly, the sofa is filled with anything I plan to take with me. Lists are made and checked off as I go along.
Diary, pen, camera (remember batteries!), blister plasters, Idoform, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, underwear, bikini (will there be sun and bathing?), Jacket, shoes (for dressing up as well?), Singlets (many!), a nice sweater, pants and …. Oh, there’s probably something else too.

It’s all there, on the couch. Reminding me of the departure that is approaching. I’m looking forward to it! Visa? (Sorted). Passports, money and tickets (the most important!). Toiletries (shall I bring the big or small washing bag?).

Checking addresses, printing out reservations, maps … Shall I bring a phrase book?

Bag or backpack? Rolling my clothes together. Scattering and stuffing. The papers in here. Socks over there. Checking the weight – yep, it seems to be ok.

Almost ready now. Counting the minutes. Double-checking that the most important items are with me. Locking the door, down the stairs and voilà – I’m on my way!

Here are some of the gifts we have received previously – and seriously enjoyed. There are also some ideas for those of you with travel geeks in the family.

1. Lonely Planet’s “The Middle of Nowhere”. Now and then we open this book and dream about all the exciting places around the world. Fortunately, “middle of Nowhere” does not have to be too far out of reach – we found a couple places we recognized. J
The BBC series Planet Earth shows how incredibly fascinating and beautiful our planet is. Again and again we have “traveled” into various corners of the world along with monkeys, whales, wolves, penguins… – well, accompanied by David Attenborough (of course!). Addicted? There is always the series “Blue Planet” as well…

2. A good backpack is essential when you are carrying everything you own on your back over a longer period. I bought a Lowe Alpine backpack for myself as a birthday gift a few years back and discovered a new world: a world where one can go long without pause because your shoulders are tired! With the torso system it is the body carrying the bag, and not just the shoulders. I could walk forever.

3. Airport game. Is geography your favorite subject? Have you visited several of the world’s airports or are you fascinated by the different nations’ flags? We are three people who forget time and place when we sit down with this game! Great fun!

4. Joe saw the light last winter when I gave him a set of Devold’s wool underwear for Christmas last year. He went out to ski, and although he got sweaty he realized the importance of wool – it keeps you warm – allways.
5. Scarves and shawls. I love them and use them A LOT. On the plane, outdoors, or if I am going out for a drink and the jacket is too hot. A shawl is a nice alternative.

6. – YES! Joe cried, when he got this leather belt for Christmas a few years ago. It had a pocket on the inside where you can hide money. Unfortunately, he left it on a bed post in Londonwhen we went to Hong Kong. Now I am searching for a new one for him.

7. Kjøkkenklasken has been a very good travel companion for various journeys. Not all bathrooms have a plug, and you do not always have the time or energy to look for a laundry. So use the closest sink for doing your washing.

Expectations build up. The excitement of what lies in front of you… Sometimes this is a journey in itself.

Indiana Jones raced through here looking for the Holy Grail. I choose to take my time. Even though it is what lies ahead of me that has made the whole site so famous. It is the passage I am going through now that will make the strongest impression on me. Over a mile long gorge – The Siq.

Don’t get me wrong. The entire ancient city of Petra is one amazing sight. The main attraction Al-Khazneh is incredibly beautiful and impressive where “The Treasury” reveals itself as a carved piece of jewelry in the peach red rock walls.

But it is the little journey there I enjoy the most, where Joe and I are almost alone. The few people we see here and there only enhances the dimensions, the high walls that squeeze together upon us – and makes us so very small.

In a peach and ocher-colored world, the walls play with light and show us the mysterious remains of water channels the Nabateans created. In one place we see carved camel feet and we point and look and feel for a moment like an Indiana Jones on his way to the treasury.

On our way to …

And that feels good as well.

The Norwegian travel magazines Reise-Lyst and Vagabond have both had great articles about Australia lately. Earlier this year Wanderlust produced a tempting article with lovely photos from the red continent Down Under.

And we consume it all, being the huge Australia fans we are. Telling everybody who bothers listening about all the great stuff we experienced on our two great journeys down there. Also here – and here (in Norwegian). And we did manage to see and do quite a few things: Western Australia, Northern Territory, South Australia, Queensland, Canberra, New South Wales, Victoria and Tasmania.

I asked Joe for a top 10 list, knowing that it is nearly impossible to do one. We loved everything!

We really cross our fingers that we will see Australia again. And with the Land Rover next time. There are so many things we did not get to see as many places are only available by 4WD. We are particularly interested in The Kimberleys in the North West (and seeing the photos in Wanderlust did not exactly help! )